The epitome of life…and England

Having now travelled the length and narrow breadth of the Huddersfield Narrow Canal, including a voyage into the interior, it seems to epitomise life, and England too – today, yesterday and tomorrow.

It brings amazing highs, significant lows and challenges. It is built on a long history, heritage and currency of diversity and community, spectacular scenery and constant innovation.

It rightly claims superlatives and records – longest, deepest, highest tunnel above sea level (Standedge), the oldest currently navigable cast-iron aqueduct which nearly gave me a heart attack as well as very wobbly knees when I turned the boat along it to suddenly see a sheer drop to the cascading River Tame on my right (Stalybridge), and boasts the highest stretch of canal in England.

Cyclists, walkers and joggers appreciate its towpaths. Among boaters though, it doesn’t seem as appreciated as it should be – perhaps because it isn’t an easy route – it demands effort and engagement with 74 locks to tackle on its 19.3 mile length, and regular forethought to keep moving despite often low water levels. That means canoeists and paddleboarders avoid it too, whilst wild swimmers evidently enjoy its supplying reservoirs!

From unassuming beginnings in the West Yorkshire market town of Huddersfield with its solid Victorian architecture, the canal slides between the modern buildings of the university, navigating the odd shopping trolley. These may lead some boaters (maybe wrongly) to conclude today’s students are too wealthy to want £1 back or too lazy to return to the supermarket…

Through villages, hamlets and market towns, creativity runs along the Huddersfield Narrow like a golden thread…

Community spirit is strong here – inclusive, united, shared and collaborative. Design to celebrate, cement and build identity and make their place a better place, a place to share with those who float through, and those who arrive to stay.

The highlight for many has to be the remarkable Standedge Tunnel burrowing deep through the Pennines. It claims multiple superlatives, and rightly so.

Images cannot do justice to the feeling this incredible feat of engineering, and determined construction inspires, but give you an idea of its scale and scope. From being measured to see if we will fit (we did) to travelling through the heart of the Pennines via meticulously laid brick arches, rough hewn rock and snaking through the sections of what resemble spray concreted intestines with little space to spare, wet, dry, damp, cold and warm – it was an experience like no other. To discover more about the dramatic story behind this and the other three parallel tunnels I highly recommend Trevor Ellis’s very readable book The Standedge Tunnels available from the Huddersfield Canal Society shop. It’s fascinating and you also know the purchase is going towards a good cause!

The views from and around the Huddersfield Narrow are as changing, fluid, generous and inspiring as the people we encountered who live and work along its length. People who too time to share insight and muscle to help us along its length. To everyone who pushed a gate, smiled, waved, stopped for a chat, helped us through tunnels, and locks or thoughtfully guided us to the best pubs and cafes – thank you.

Never until now have I been inspired to verse, but there’s always a first time, and Huddersfield Narrow has been a veritable inspiration, so here’s my attempt

Historic, handsome, honest, alive 
Unassuming, it moves with Pennine strength
Dedicated individuals cleave to see it revive
Dynamic communities hum again along its length.
Embracing cultures, contours, countryside, weaving away
Reinventing constantly: transport,dereliction,now leisure use
Solid foundations thus saved from decay.
Formidable engineering sustains each tunnel, lock and sluice
Innovation repurposing water, land and mills en route.
Established with a backbone of 74 tough vertebrae
Lauded with numerous superlatives, today we salute
Diversity and community, gleaming threads on daily display.

Noteworthy for tunnel, aqueduct, height 
Arduous in effort, exhausting but real
Rewarding from water to high moorland delight
Repaying our input wi’ nowt to conceal.
Original, impressive, one not to be missed
Welcoming, educating, a must on any wishlist.

Like life, the HUDDERSFIELD NARROW is unique in character, taken slowly, thoughtfully and savoured, it reveals unexpected and delightful gems.

Next week: 20 things to help any staycation stay afloat…

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