Peaking early in 2022

The past is the past – whether two years, two hundred or two thousand years ago. It creates and shapes our future.

This week has seen us travelling (for us) the final stretch of the Peak Forest Canal – known as Peak Forest Upper as it stretches into the Peak Forest, through ancient landscapes of fells, woods, and into history itself. Another new stretch for us early in the year, and an historic one in the history of our nation.

The terminus of the canal is two-pronged – to the left is Buggy Basin (Bugsworth Basin) at Buxworth and the right travels into the town of Whaley Bridge.

Buggy Basin was the largest and busiest inland port on Britain’s narrow canal system and the only one to survive intact. It holds Ancient Monument status thanks to the efforts of the Bugsworth Basin Heritage Trust (previously the Inland Waterways Protection Society). Due to their efforts not only canal history but our industrial heritage is here for us all to see in this remarkable place. It was hugely important in its day, a complex of transhipment canal arms and basins situated at the end of a six mile tramway from the limestone quarries of Dove Holes. Not only would there have been up to 20 barges a day loading limestone and quicklime – the latter the output of the lime kilns built alongside the basin at Navigation and Gnats Hole. The loads from kiln and quarry were essentials to fuel Lancashire’s heavy industry.

Now this hub of industrial activity is given over to leisure boats and walkers. It is not silent though, particularly in winter with no leaves on the trees the busy A6 passing on the far side of the basin lends a constant hum. Easy mooring exists on provided mooring rings, and a convenient pub – The Navigation Inn a short stroll from the basin. For boaters there is a draw of water, waste and an Elsan point too.

The more recent past awaits down the other arm of the canal which wends into Whaley Bridge, the town made (in)famous in August 2019 amid fears a reservoir dam would collapse. Some 1500 people were evacuated from their homes in the town amid fears the town would face a devastating flood.

Thanks to efforts from RAF teams operating Chinook helicopters, engineers from Canal and River Trust (who operate the reservoir) and volunteers from the community, disaster was averted. Reminders remain throughout the town and work continues to decommission the damaged spillway that looms over a children’s playground, and create a newly routed replacement which is hoped to be operational by 2023. Until then the reservoir is kept nearly empty and the Peak Forest and Macclesfield Canal water levels are maintained with high pressure pumps from the remaining reservoir and River Goyt. These run 24/7 near the boaters’ services by the Transhipment Warehouse which now contains a community space alongside one of the most atmospheric and secondhand bookshops.

We shall always remember this basin at Whaley Bridge as The Place Steve Fell In The Canal. Somehow he came off the boat whilst mooring, bashing his knee, thumb and ribs on the boat as he fell. Then followed the indignity of being hauled out by one arm and landed dripping on the towpath. (That’s why I didn’t have a spare hand to take photographs!)Dry clothes and a whisky were immediate recovery requirements.

Wherever you travel (or swim) on this stretch reminders of the past – historic or recent – punctuate your journey. It has shaped who we are and how we live – the heavy industry has given way to new industries driven by demand, like the Swizzles- Matlow factory which makes the New Mills stretch of the canal a sherberty paradise from its home in the former Brunswick cotton mill.

This is the home of Drumsticks, Fizzers, Refreshers and the iconic Love Hearts. You can personalise your own Love Hearts with whatever message you like. What would yours be?

Wifi has been good all week which was great news for work, and now we’ve Peaked early by completing the remainder of the Peak Forest in January. We completed the section from Ashton under Lyne down to Marple Junction last summer on our way back from our Yorkshire trip. Marple Locks are currently shut for major repair work so we can’t head back that way… where next we wonder? Keep following us to find out.