Is this trip a stage too far?

Is this the journey that’s going to finish us?

We turned onto the Kennet and Avon, aiming to head through Berkshire, Wiltshire, and then to Avon. We have now been on the canal for two weeks, and only now are we feeling we might survive it.

Never have we shouted at each other so much or argued like this. The early stretches of this canal from Reading to Newbury are definitely NOT designed to foster marital harmony!

We did stick with it though and found, as some had advised, that the Kennet and Avon changes its character as it goes along (thank heavens).

The Reading to Newbury stretch is a challenge, a struggle heading uphill through locks with only gate paddles that need to be opened with great care to avoid out home and office being thrown about in turbulence similar to a powerful washing machine spin. Throw into the mix constant swing or lift bridges, river flows coming at you from unexpected angles bringing gravel banks, weirs, heat – unrelenting heat – and horseflies, maybe it wasn’t just the K&A but a combination of circumstances and situation.
Remembering that we had some Avon Skin so Soft on board disposed of biting bugs, plus Germolene  (and its soothing smell redolent of childhood) to anoint the persistently itching bites incurred before we unearthed the Skin so Soft,  has made life much more pleasant.

The stretch of canal from Newbury to Hungerford has been a delight with some peaceful mooring spots, friendly village shops with remarkable produce and good pubs. We have had the real delight of being able to catch up with old friends and colleagues from nearly 25 years ago when we lived and worked in the area. From Newbury we have also been astonished by the efficiency of buses and trains serving little villages and market towns.

So as with most boating – challenges fade in the memory replaced by current delights. Kingfishers, villages resplendent with thatched cottages, remarkable topiary, and wonderful walks on the Downs are making the frustration and fears of the past week something of the distant past.

We have refuelled (for the first time since June in Northamptonshire) thanks to a new fuel boat called Tarn operated by Mike Mann and his four-legged boss Myrtle. It is so important for us to support commercial boats, particularly new ones so we were glad to give them our business.

Maybe we haven’t gone as far or as fast as we thought we might, but we are hugely grateful for the chance to explore areas and also share hospitality with old friends. It has also allowed us time to explore and find fascinating insights in areas which we would have missed had we not walked and wandered our way. We have found tombstones to the Newbury Martyrs which sent us finding ghastly inhumanities of Tudor times in the name of religion. It seems devastating and unthinkable that inhumanities continue to be committed today in the name of religion. Will the human race never learn and live in tolerant peace? 
We also discovered the tombstone of James Dean – not that James Dean but an unfortunate carriage driver who died in 1827 after a collision with a hearse laden with a coffin that came off in the accident and killed poor James.

In Hungerford we also experienced a clatter gate also called a clapper gate or tumble stile. One of the most unusual gates we’ve ever seen which totally bemused both me and Boatdog until it was demonstrated.

Next week, we won’t have as many chances to pause but will get a move on (in narrowboat fashion). We aim to tackle 27 miles, 1 tunnel, 5 swing bridges (one in the middle of a lock), and 52 locks before next weekend!
We climb to Crofton, head through the Savernake Tunnel, and then after Pewsey, we start to descend the famous Caen Hill via one of the longest continuous flights of locks in England. Pronounced Cane, this flight has 29 locks stretching over 2 miles, which will carry us down 237 feet (and when we come back this way after turning at Bath, it will carry us up that distance too!).

The locks come in three sections –the first set will take us through Devizes. The next 16 are a steep descent and with their spectacular side ponds are now a scheduled ancient monument. The final seven cover just three quarters of a mile.

The famed engineer John Rennie designed the locks to tackle the steep Caen Hill, so it’s Rennie we have to thank or blame – next week we shall know which!

One of the main pluses at the moment is that we have water to travel on, to allow us to keep on the move, unlike so many people across the country at the moment. This is the situation this week of stoppages (red) and restrictions (beige) resulting from low water levels.

I’m pretty sure that we need some sustained torrential rain and if we’re aiming on moving every day next week the chances are we might just be encouraging the skies to open – let’s see if they do! We may be squelching down the Caen Hill Flight!

So this canal is challenging us and shaking us out of complacency. If we thought we were getting the hang of this boating lark after all these years, it’s proved to us we still have a lot to learn and we are grateful for that tough reminder.